Day 1

Day 1: Kyoto to Takayama – By Train

After renting our bicycles, we took them by hand from our hotel (El Inn Kyoto) to Kyoto train station, and boarded on the morning direct train to Takayama. It takes the train about 4 hours to reach its destination.

We’ve disembarked the train on Takayama station, unpacked and rebuilt the bikes and rode to our Hotel. On the way we’ve stopped for a short coffee break in a local, lovely coffee shop.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

It was rainy in the evening, and we’ve decided to leave the bike stored in the hotel, and went for a short visit to the lovely city of Takayama. Later in the evening we spend a quite evening in the Takayama Kanko Hotel’s Onsen.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Day 2

Day 2: Takayama to Gero Onsen – A Warm-up Day

The rain was over, and finally we were ready for our bicycle trip in Japan.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

The first riding day was the right time to get used to our new bikes and to riding on the left side of the road. During our trip we’ve tried to avoid the main roads and to use side roads. Although our bikes were equipped with road tires, there were times when we rode on unpaved surfaces.

Route 41 is famous for its spectacular scenery. Luckily, there is a long and quite wide sideway designed for bicycles (not marked, though) that we could use. On some parts of the road the sideway appears on the right side of the road, and sometimes it discontinues and continue on the opposite side.

Trying to avoid the busy road (and to please Dror, who is always looking for steep climbs), we’ve road along route 98, a mountain road that is climbing on steep mountains, visiting lakes and ski area, and descending back to the valley, joining route 41 and route 88, directly to Gero Onsen, for a great welcome in our hotel – Suimeikan.

It was a long, enjoyable riding day: what an opening for a great riding week!

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Day 3

Day 3: Gero Onsen to Yaotsu – Losing my wallet, Steep Climbing to Yaotsu

We’ve started the day visiting Shirakawago Gassho Zukuri Museum. Then we rode again along route 41, visiting small villages along the way.

At one point of time I realized that my wallet is missing. We have suspected that it was left near a ‘nomimono-machine’ (drinks machine) in the village of Hida Kanayama, but we were not sure if this was the place. It was too late to return to Hida Kanayama from where we were. We’ve decided to challenge the Japanese people’s reputation to bring back lost valuables that they find.

At Shirakawa junction we’ve left route 41, turned East via route 62 to route 68, and start climbing the mountains north of Yaotsu, along the steep curves of route 83.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

After (almost) every long climb there is a long descend, and though we’ve found ourselves, at the end of another challenging and enjoyable day in the warm and welcoming hands of Sato San, 4’th generation of managing lovely Matsuya Ryokan.

Sato san heard the story about the lost wallet: her advice was to contact the local ‘Koban’ (police station) and to file a claim. We were so tired and hungry and it was very helpful that the policeman did not force me to visit the station. Instead, I gave him all the details over the phone.

15 minutes after – the message came: The Wallet Has Been Found!

Day 4

Day 4: Yaotsu to Gifu – From Chiune Sugihara Memorial Museum to Shirakawa River

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Today’s weather was hot and humid. We climbed the hills of route 418 towards Suguhara hill of Humanity, to visit this important Chiune Sugihara Memorial Museum. It tells the heroic story of Sugihara San, a minister in the Japanese foreign office that was stationed in Lithuania during the 2’nd world war. By doing his brave actions, Sugihara San saved the lives of around 6000 Jews.

Trying to clear our disturbing thoughts, and while descending back along route 418 and 83, we were looking for a place to rest: a coffee break would be perfect!

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Kato San is a retired JAS Captain who decided to fulfill a long time dream and to open a coffee restaurant. It is located in front of the gasoline station just after crossing Kiso River, on route 83. If you have the time to visit Kato San’s place, you will find there not only good coffee and excellent homemade cheese cake, but also a warm welcome.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Bicycle Trip in Japan

After this short brake we continued our ride along villages and rice fields, towards Minokamo city, as my wallet was waiting there in the local ‘Koban‘ (police station). Did we talk about the Japanese efficiency?

Bicycle Trip in Japan

During the rest of the day we rode along beautiful countryside roads and along Nagara River, which led us to our next rest station: Nagarawa Sports Hotel, in Gifu.

Day 5

Day 5: Gifu to Hikone – Urban Ride, Steep Climbs, Steep Descends

There is a quite flat road that goes from Gifu to Biwa Lake, but again we have decided to take a much quitter and pictures mountain roads.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

The first flat 15 miles of urban ride did not gave us the right clue about what to expect on the 2’nd half of the day. As we left the urban area and headed south, along route 365, the calm weather was changed and became very windy. At some parts of the ride we could not develop more than the minimum speed to stay stable on the bikes.

The way up to the mountain pass along route 306 was steep and long, but there was another difficulty: a flat tire that I had on the way up, one that develops slowly and is hard to recognize until a late stage.

Going down from Taga Pass to Hikone was a great reward for our climbing efforts. We spent the night at Hikone Castle Resort & Spa.

Day 6

Day 6: Hikone to Takashima – Along Biwa Lake, Coffee with the French Guy

We’ve started the day visiting Hikone Castle. Take a look:

Bicycle Trip in Japan

We rode along the east bank of Lake Biwa, trying to stay near the water. It was a lovely Sunday, and many families and couples were out traveling. We met many bicycle riders on the way.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Bicycle Trip in Japan

At some point we left the coastal road, and rode along a nice peninsula on scenic route 557. On the trees and near the lake there were many monkeys that probably wanted to spend some quality time with their families on such a sunny day.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

As we left route 557 we found ourselves in a very nice coffee shop that is laying just on the water front of Lake Biwa, in Makinohigashi. Quite music of Lora Johns in a Japanese antique shop and a very welcoming Japanese couple, and the calmness of Lake Biwa were the perfect cast for our meeting with a French guy who have decided to take a several month break from his intensive life as a civil engineer in Tokyo and to cross Japan on his touring bike, just before making some important decisions in his life.

We spent the night at Grand Park Hotel Okibiwako Makino, near Makino station, east of the city of Takashima. It is a lovely place, located just 100 yards from the lake.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Day 7

Day 7: Takashima to Kyoto – Along the Holly Valley, Up and Down to Kyoto

We left Lake Biwa heading north along route 303, than headed west along route 367 that is laying on a long valley, on the way to Kyoto. As always, we’ve decided to be “creative” and from time to time we’ve left the main road and took the small, country side roads so that we could see the “real” Japan and the Japanese people living in the countryside. If you plan to follow this route you need to be aware that unlike the rest of the main roads, route 367 does not have any bicycle sideways.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

After crossing the pass, about 650m above sea level, we’ve started a long and nice descend to the historic city of Kyoto. The scenery of the country side was changed to a more populated area, but Kyoto does not look like other cities: in many parts of the city it still has the look and feel of a small village.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Day 8

Day 8: Day trip in Kyoto – Visiting Kyoto’s Temples

Today was our last riding day in Japan, so we planed a relaxed and enjoyable urban bike ride.

Bicycle Trip in Japan

We’ve started by visiting Ryoanji Temple. There after we’ve visited Kinkakuji Temple. After crossing the city from West to East along small roads, canals and coffee shops we visited Jinkakuji Temple.

Going down from Jinkakuji Temple we rode along the “Route of Philosophy” and some other temples. It was a great day that left us with a hunger for more days like this in Japan.

To finalize our day (and actually our 8 days of bicycle trip in Japan) we’ve returned the rental bikes to Keving from, who together with his business partner Sam, are expanding their bicycle rental business from Osaka to Kyoto as well. After celebrating our achievement drinking a cold bear with Kevin (“Kampai”!) – we’ve returned to our special Ryukan in Kyoto to spend a quite night in Japan.

Trip Preparations


Renting bikes in Japan was a complicated task. As our trip was a relatively short, we thought that it would be best to avoid bringing our bikes with us and to rent touring bikes locally. However, it was very difficult to find a bicycle store or a bicycle rental agency that is renting any bicycles other than simple city bikes suited for urban day trips.

Luckily there was one positive answer to our unusual Email request. It was from Sam, who runs with his business partner Kevin a successful bicycle renting business in Osaka: Sam arranged us three quality Trek bikes that were perfect for our needs.

The Bike

Bicycle Trip in Japan

‘Kampai’ with Kevin from

Bicycle Trip in Japan


The bikes came equipped with rear racks to hold our panniers; In addition, the handlebars were equipped with quality ergonomic grips. Other than these two additions, the bikes did not have any extra accessories.

We’ve brought with us panniers, to carry most of our personal stuff. In addition, two of us also used handlebar bags to carry handy items, such as video camera and wallets.

Bicycle Trip in Japan


Although the month of May was not supposed to be too rainy, in Japan there is always a possibility of rainy days. Luckily, public laundries are very common, so you can count on washing your used clothes at the end of each riding day.

On most of our riding days the weather was dry so we did not have to carry any rain resistance clothes. Each of us brought two or three sets of bicycling shorts, two bicycling shirts, two pairs of socks and three under wears. In addition, one set of cycling gloves was sufficient, as well as cycling head skull cap.

Personal Equipment

The list of personal equipment to carry in such trip is long, and includes personal papers, money (most ATM machines accepts all major credit cards), video and still cameras, mobile phones (I suggest to carry with you an external battery chargers), first aid kits, bicycle repair kits and a travel size Kleenex moist wipes.

Note: for more information on how to prepare yourself to a touring trip you a invited to visit my page about bicycle touring preparation.

How Did We Carry Our Bikes on the Train?

In Japan you are not allowed to carry your bicycle on a public transportation if it is not being stored inside a bicycle bag or a travel case. The good news is that you can wrap your bike with plastic bag, and even carry it with you on your rear rack to be used later on, if needed. Just remember to bring with you a utility duct tape. Take a look:


Bicycle Trip in Japan


Bicycle Trip in Japan

How Did We Navigate?

The planning Phase

For planning our bicycle trip in Japan we searched for maps that are made specifically for cyclists. To our surprise we did not find any cycling maps, at least not ones that are covering the area of our trip (mainly Gifu prefecture). The only option was to buy maps that are designed for motorcyclists, called Touring Mapple (you can buy them on eBay). A list of all Touring Mapple maps can be found here.

Instead we used Google Maps for planning our trip: it was enough for our needs.

Finding Our Way

Since the introduction of the GPS system, navigation has become so simple. We used an off line GPS navigation program called MAPS.ME, which was perfect for our needs. In addition, we used enlarged printouts maps of our final destinations, taken from Google Maps.

What’s Next

If you like my Takayama to Kyoto self-guided bicycle trip, you are invited to Contact Us and get more detailed information, including variations to the basic trip, tips about the best season to travel and much more advice from my and other travelers experience.

You are also welcome to check out some of my own bicycle trips to get an idea of this type of exciting cycling style.

Useful Links

More Pictures

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Bicycle Trip in Japan

Bicycle Trip in Japan – The Movie


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